Clutch Adjustment Pt.3

Table of contents for Clutch Adjustment

  1. Clutch Adjustment
  2. Clutch Adjustment Pt.2
  3. Clutch Adjustment Pt.3

That is what this adjustment is doing. we don’t want the paddle to go right in to floor board. we want it to stop nice and firm. In this model the western star this topper is adjustable.

So when we set our clutch brakes to good squeeze we can adjust that stopper out so that we have one inch before the floor. in other models manufactures trucks do not have that stopper. The peddle or the linkage wheel go right into the floor board and you still want the required one inch of distance between the clutch arm or the clutch paddle before it hits the floor board. If we check this in the cab the customer has required clutch adjustment.

We see what needs to be adjusted whether its the clutch brake or the free paddle or both. Then, we can decide what steps we are going to take next in order to make those adjustment corrections. The clutch brake adjustment is a linkage adjustment. Linkage on the western star, it has 2 adjustable rods on it. Turn buckles both ends of the rod and the turn buckles are left hand and right hand thread. so on order to make the adjustment on either of the lower or the upper rod, we need to bust the jam not loose holding the turn buckle and then once they are free either link them or shorten the rod in order to get the proper clutch brakes squeeze.

Underneath the truck whether its on a hoist whether its on a creeper you need to access the clutch inspection hole. Generally there should be a clutch inspection cover which is held in place by 5 – 60 bolts remove the cover and access the clutch.

In case you didn’t see the video in part 1 of this series… here it is again.

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