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Next siphon off some of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. Be sure not to spill any on your paint or you’ll damage it and dispose the fluid responsibly. By using a commonly available ‘C’ clamp to compress the piston make room for the newer, thicker pads.

To get the caliper off all you usually have to do is remove the two bolts. On this particular model all we have to do is remove the lower bolt and rotate the caliper out. You gonna wanna hold the caliper up with a piece of wire to prevent from stressing the rubber hose. If you have to remove the caliper totally, you wanna hang it completely on it’s own by the wire. Unclip and remove the inner pad and the outer pad. On some pads anti-squeal compound will have to be applied to the back of each pad to prevent the brakes from being noisy. Install the new pads in the same way the old ones came out. Torque the caliper bolts to the specifications in your Haynes manual.

Pump the brake pedal and check the brake fluid level before you drive the car. And that’s all there is to it. You need to get a Haynes Manual because there are definitely differences among the models and there’s other things you need to check while the caliper is off.

Our step by step procedures and photographs will make it even easier.

In case you didn’t see the video in part 1 of this series… here it is again.

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